Inner Fire Climbing Podcast

• #8 - Juliet Hammer

  In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about: Juliet's climbing history Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics Being a short climber Board climbing Coaching philosophy and shop talk Personal grades Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship Value capture as both a coach and climber Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits 00:00:00 Intro 00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality 00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients 00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber 00:30:31 Strength training 00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk 00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison 00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu 01:00:41 Motivations 01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer 01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions 01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun? 01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers? 01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression 01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach 01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias 01:42:55 Addy 01:45:09 Work with Juliet  

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• #7 - April 2025 AMA - Weight management, developing technique, footwork, first ascents and more

  Questions from my Patrons and clients for April 2025. Thanks to Ryan Frecka for joining me for the weight management questions. Support the show on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/jfireclimbing Questions: 0:00:00 Intro 0:00:45 Jishnu - What is good footwork? 00:09:35 Jishnu - Modern classics 00:11:01 Nico & Giancarlo - Returning to a project after a tweak/injury 00:16:28 Briana - Managing detraining on a long trip 00:20:37 Victor - Indoor vs outdoor technique 00:25:32 Caleb - Cycling between bouldering & sport climbing 00:29:54 Jeffrey - Podcast update 00:31:11 Brian - Motivation behind doing first ascents 00:35:33 Stephanie - Strength to weight ratio (w/ Ryan Frecka) 00:43:01 Stephanie - Body composition (w/ Ryan Frecka) 00:47:46 Stephanie - When to put on more muscle (w/ Ryan Frecka) 00:53:07 Stephanie - Signs of a strength deficit (w/ Ryan Frecka) 00:58:42 Stephanie - Nutritional approach (w/ Ryan Frecka) 01:06:02 Ryan's additional comments on set point theory 01:09:02 Outro

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• #6 - The "Rules"

  In this solo episode, I do my best to explain the rules of bouldering: what some of them are, why they're arbitrary, how they're changing over time, and how we should all proceed. Support the show on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/jfireclimbing

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• #5 - Ethan Pringle

  I sit down with Ethan Pringle to catch up with him and his cat Snowflake. We talk about: Balancing stability and freedom Crag development in South Africa (AKA how to pivot when things don’t go your way) Not training Much discussion of highball strategy Risk perception, risk tolerance and age Jumbo Love, Realization, and self-doubt Advice for his younger self

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• #4 - March 2025 AMA - Session duration, soft pauses and gaze, DOMS

  Questions from my Patrons and clients for March 2025. Support the show on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/jfireclimbing Questions: 0:00:00 Intro 0:00:37 Mackenzie - How's the podcast going? 0:01:30 Luke - Sling Blade update??? (with three question marks) 0:04:15 Jeffrey - Soft pause and gaze 0:11:32 Lu - Board climbing session duration 0:18:20 Ryan - Minimal methods for improving on slopers & pinches 0:29:46 eejayen - Dealing with DOMS from lifting 0:32:44 Sam - Climbing philosophy 0:34:36 William - Developing highballs 0:38:35 Leone - Finger curls with weight 0:40:48 - Outro

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