The Testpiece Podcast

One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
When to consider surgery

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits
The history and future of rubber technology for shoes

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Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit
The look of the Decoy Board
The pros and cons of every training board
Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury
What are the defining characteristics of the British board style?
How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplines
When to use a standardized board over a spray wall

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Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.
He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 
A look into Connor’s approach to training
What makes him so strong on jams and locks?
Connor’s bouldering aspirations
Connor and the TB2

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